Chinese cold appetizers (liang cai / 凉菜) are small, chilled dishes served at the start of a Shanghainese meal to wake up the palate before the hot food arrives. They come as a spread of shared little plates: smoked fish, drunken chicken, marinated tofu, and garlicky cucumber salad, all picked at while the table settles in. They are light, fragrant, and often made ahead, and they set the rhythm of the meal.
First-time diners skip the cold plates and miss the best opening a Shanghai meal has. They are worth ordering every time.
The Classic Shanghai Cold Appetizers
| Dish | What it is | Flavor |
|---|---|---|
| Drunken Chicken | Poached chicken marinated in Shaoxing wine | Cool, savory, faintly boozy |
| Smoked Fish | Fried then steeped in a sweet-savory sauce | Sweet, dark, tender |
| Marinated Tofu | Pressed tofu in soy and sesame | Savory, chewy, nutty |
| Cucumber Salad | Smashed cucumber with garlic and vinegar | Crunchy, bright, garlicky |
Why Start a Meal Cold?
The cold plates earn their place. Their brightness and acidity sharpen the appetite and cut the richness of the braised and fried dishes ahead. Cooks make them in advance and serve them chilled, so they reach the table first while the kitchen fires the hot food, setting the tone before the soup dumplings and noodles arrive.
How to Order Them
Order two or three cold appetizers for the table to share, not one each. Pick a mix of textures and flavors: something savory (drunken chicken), something sweet (smoked fish), and something crunchy and bright (cucumber salad). Then move on to soup dumplings and a noodle or braised main. Our first-timer guide shows how to build a complete meal.
Where to Try Them
At Shanghai Taste in Rockville, MD, cold appetizers open the menu the way they open a Shanghai meal. See the cold appetizers section on our full menu, or read more about Shanghai's table traditions in Chinese Dining Culture.
Sources and Further Reading
Frequently Asked Questions
What are Chinese cold appetizers?
Chinese cold appetizers (liang cai / 凉菜) are small, chilled dishes served at the start of a meal to wake up the palate before the hot food arrives. In Shanghainese dining they come as a spread of shared little plates — drunken chicken, smoked fish, marinated tofu, and garlicky cucumber salad — picked at while the table settles in.
What are common Shanghai cold appetizers?
Classic Shanghai cold appetizers include drunken chicken (poached chicken marinated in Shaoxing wine), smoked fish (fried then steeped in a sweet-savory sauce), marinated pressed tofu, and smashed cucumber salad with garlic and vinegar. Order two or three for the table to share, mixing savory, sweet, and crunchy.
Why do Chinese meals start with cold dishes?
Cold appetizers are bright and acidic, which sharpens the appetite and cuts the richness of the braised and fried dishes that follow. Because they are chilled and often made ahead, they arrive first while the kitchen fires the hot dishes — the table's opening note before soup dumplings and noodles land.